As I mentioned in the Executive Wild Bird Suet Recipe, we have Executive Wild Birds. What? These are wild birds that are accustomed to things just a tad upscale and wonderful. Homemade suet, yes. Store bought suet, no.
We learned that small plastic bird feeders were going to be a chore. We bought feeders that were squirrel resistant, large capacity, and with replaceable or fixable parts.
The feeding station we inherited was fine until loaded down with the new feeders that weighed in at 10-pounds including seed. I shopped around a bit and found that robust bird feeder stands are not cheap! $200! $150? Of course, there are plenty of ways of going about this but we wanted a "once and done" project.
Executive Wild Bird Feeder Stand
- (1) 3/4" galvanized 10' pipe, with threaded ends and (2) 3/4" galvanized 24" pipes with threaded ends
- (1) 3/4" galvanized 10' pipe cut down to 8' then have the 2' cut-off threaded and grab only (1) 3/4" galvanized 24" pipe with threaded ends. You'll save a few bucks if you have the cut-off threaded but depending on your situation you might need the stand to be taller or have more pipe in the ground. Either way you want the arms of the stand to be 24" long to thwart squirrels from reaching down from the top of the stand to the feeders. Sneaky, nimble buggers.
- (1) 3/4" galvanized pipe tee
- (2) 3/4" galvanized pipe caps, we found that tequila bottle corks work here too so you can save a few bucks and reuse something you have hanging around the homestead.
- (2) 1/4" x 2-5/8" eyebolts with nuts, screw hooks can work here but we preferred to use eyebolts in conjunction with the quick links to ensure that the feeders couldn't be knocked off a hook or meet some other less than wonderful demise.
- (2) 1/8" quick links, you could save a couple bucks and use wire or fashion an s-hook or dig around in your hardware and use something you have on hand. The goal is to prevent critters from simply knocking the feeder on the ground.
- (1) bag of concrete or you can use gravel or you can try packed earth. We were confident in the placement and really didn't want to repair or fix this later so we went with concrete. [Update: If you don't want to use concrete, consider rebar that the pipe fits over, both placed in a deep hole and secured with gravel, etc. or using an earth anchor. 8 May 2017]
- Total cost for the items listed was $57 and this stand will accommodate two feeders.
- Drill bit
- The two 24" pipes will be the arms of the tee. The length of the tee is to thwart squirrels from reaching the feeders from the top. Drill holes on one end of each 24" pipe and insert the eye hooks and secure with nuts. If you are like Dale then you will be concerned about right angle to the pipe and clocking each eyebolt just so. Thanks, Dale. Another "we" project done right.
- Screw the pipe caps on the end of each 24" pipe next to the eyebolts.
- Screw the other end of the 24" pipes into the tee.
- Okay, now you need to determine how tall you want the stand to be. We decided that we wanted tall enough to thwart jumpers and such from the ground yet not too tall for me to reach. We cut our pipe 8' long allowing for about 18" to be in the ground. So, cut the 10' pipe to desired length.
- Depending on your need for straight, level, blah, blah, you might want to use a brace of some kind to hold the stand in place if you are going to use concrete. Thanks, Dale.
- Standard pole setting in concrete rules now apply if you are using concrete.
- [Update: If you don't want to use concrete or want to be able to move the stand later, consider using rebar that the pipe will fit over or an earth anchor. Be sure to set the rebar deep enough to provide adequate support for the pipe and the feeders. 8 May 2017]
- And done.